AfricaMaldives 2020
Leaving the UK at last
Sunday 6 December, our first overseas trip since the outbreak of the pandemic and a full year since our trips to China, The Maldives and Austria in September, November and December of 2019.
This was the first time I’d flown business with Emirates. It started with the arrival of our car - a Mercedes E-class - a nice touch which I’m surprised BA don’t offer. Upon arrival at Heathrow we were greeted by a long and pointless queue, which was supposed to ensure only passengers entered the terminal, but we were simply asked if we were travelling before being allowed to enter.
Check-in and security wasn’t too bad although the older gentleman checking-in next to us failed to understand the new processes he needed to go through and forms that needed to be completed in order to travel. I’m not sure he would be going anywhere! Thankfully Emirates had agreed a lounge-share with Singapore Airlines during the disruption caused by the pandemic.
The onward flight
Monday 7th. I only managed a few hours of sleep prior to our arrival in Dubai. We had a 5.5 hour wait before our onward flight to Male but thankfully the Emirates lounge was huge and provided us with a good breakfast and some decent Costa coffee.
As we landed in Male we got an announcement asking all business class passengers to remain seated whilst health inspectors boarded. It turned out that the people in the row in front of us had become symptomatic during the flight and had been (very discretely) moved. Like us, I assume they had had a negative test prior to departure but only began exhibiting symptoms during the flight. Emirates must have had rapid test kits onboard for just such a circumstance. The cabin crew were trying to work out which of us were sat in the ‘danger zone’ and would need to provide details for contact tracing. The health officials that boarded decided that being sat behind them meant we were in the clear but everyone in their row and 3 rows in front were held back (would they be forced to self-isolate given that they would not likely test positive yet?). We noticed 2 waiting ambulances next to the plane as we disembarked.
Speedboat transfer
Instead of the seaplane we’d used in 2019 we opted for a 1 hour speedboat transfer as it seemed safer than sharing a tiny cabin with other passengers. We shared the transfer with Wayne and Vida, from Bath, who we would end up getting to know over drinks and dinner during our time at the LUX.
Our villa
Upon arrival we were “upgraded” to a villa on the pier to the south of the island that had a nicer outlook. The villa was very large and did have a lovely view to the south. Tammay unpacked whilst I simply got in the way.
Coffee
We managed to fit in a coffee from Cafe LUX before it closed for the day. A ‘Three men in a boat’ for Tammay and a ‘Coconut Devine’ for me.
We finished our first day with some cocktails and dinner.
Breakfast
Tuesday 8th. Each morning as we arrived at Glow for breakfast the maitre d’ would take our temperature as part of the various coronavirus precautions. Tammay became quite upset that I was always about 1 degree cooler.
Upon the recommendation of the shop assistant we went for a snorkel off the far pier and spotted a shark. We also stopped at the Dive Centre and I booked a scuba trip.
More great food
Running with Tammay
In a massive first Tammay agreed to join me for a run around the island.
Cocktails & games
Before dinner we enjoyed a few cocktails over a game of travel Rummikub!
Another run with Tammay
Wednesday 9th. Tammay managed another sunset run with me.
Scuba diving
Thursday 10th. An early breakfast before a morning of scuba diving. It was just me and the guide plus two crew on the small boat. We entered the water above a wreck just off the coast of Gaafaru, the next island to the north east of LUX North Male Atoll. My guide had said the was little left of the wreck but I was surprised to find quite a large vessel.
During this first dive we had seen a few small sharks - nurse, reef, black tip, up to about 5 ft - but towards the end of the dive, at a depth of 9m we encountered a large hammerhead. Clearly hungry as he was in battle with an Eagle ray. Thrashing back and forth chasing it in a very small spot and we just floated up as it was all happening - within just a few feet - less than 10 feet away at times! I’m fairly sure the eagle ray managed to escape and as we moved on the hammerhead came back past us - slightly deeper in the blue - for a final look.
Our second dive was just outside the house reef. I took my GoPro with me this time but we didn’t encounter anything too out of the ordinary.
Our roof-top patio
Friday 11th. We relaxed on our villa’s roof-top patio. We went to Beach Rouge for lunch. And of course we picked up our daily ice cream...
Plastic collection
Saturday 12th. We woke up to some rain which meant I could head out for a morning run under an overcast sky.
I started collecting the freshly washed-up plastic bottles as I circled the island and managed to accumulate quite a collection by the end.
Stand-up paddle board
Early afternoon in the lagoon - Tammay in a single kayak while I unsuccessfully attempted stand-up paddle boarding.
I manage to finish reading The Four Horsemen: The Conversation That Sparked an Atheist Revolution - Christopher Hitchens, Richard Dawkins, Sam Harris, and Daniel Dennett.
Scuba diving
Sunday 13th. An early breakfast before a morning of scuba diving. There were 4 divers plus our guide and I was buddied with a Russian guy probably in his 50’s who was a qualified rescue diver. We once again entered the water just off the coast of Gaafaru, close to the wreck we had visited on Thursday. My buddy had a decent camera and seemed very focused on filming, including setting his tripod on a rock and backing away to take a selfie. He kept lagging behind the rest of us and at times I struggled to keep sight of him while also not losing the rest of the group.
Our second dive was once again off the reef of the LUX North Male Atoll. We came across 2 turtles, one of which seemed quite relaxed and swam into our little group to get a closer look. Towards the end of the dive there was a relatively strong current pushing us off the reef. Once again I seemed to do ok with my air consumption and had 75bar left when our guild signalled for us to surface. As we headed for the 5m safety stop the current started to push us away from the reef and it became clear that my buddy wanted to stay on the reef taking videos and we soon lost sight of him. Our guide headed back for him, repeatedly banging his tank to draw his attention. I’m not sure if our guide managed to get sight of him but we did reunite on the surface.
A few more runs
Coffee?
I had a go at the 'Latte art class’.
A late run for me, just after the sun had set. I managed a couple of island loops before it got too dark and then ran the length of both piers as they were well lit.
An early breakfast
Monday 14th. Although we were up and at breakfast relatively early we decided to relax next to the (deserted) main pool following breakfast. We spent much of the day in the same spot, having lunch and also taking a conference call with the Courtyard resident’s committee. We only left once the sun had moved lower in the sky and removed our shade.
Clear skys
We returned to the room for a nap and I went for another sunset run. After dinner there was a clear sky so we went to the roof of our villa and lay back on the sofa in the hope of seeing some Geminid meteors. We only saw one.
Breakfast
Tuesday 15th. After breakfast we were unable to relax next to the main pool as the staff were planning on creating a ‘festive stage’, so instead made our way across to Beach Rouge and setup camp on the beach. We stayed until well into the afternoon when the sun began to move lower in the sky.
We moved to the roof of our villa where we continued to read until the sun set and I went out for another run around the island.
Lounging
Wednesday 16th. After breakfast we head back to the same two loungers on the beach next to Beach Rouge. I manage to finish reading Anti Social by Nick Pettigrew.
More lounging
Thursday 17th. Sticking to our routine we head back to the same beach and the same pair of loungers after breakfast. I start reading The Cage by Tom Abraham, I’m sure I started reading this years ago but I guess I’ll soon find out!
Last day
Friday 18th. A very early start for our 09:25 flight from Male to Dubai. We were the only people on the speedboat transfer so agreed a slightly later departure which allowed us to have final coffee and a light breakfast at Cafe LUX.
The speedboat departure
As we neared Male the boat crew ushered us to the front deck to see a large pod of dolphins who’d come to see us off.
Cocktails at 40,000 feet
After 11 days of not wearing a face mask we once again put them on as we entered the terminal building.
As you’d expect Male airport was small and checking-in / security didn’t take too long. They actually had a good sized lounge and although there wasn’t much on offer it was a nice place to sit for an hour before boarding. The business cabin was very quiet. There was a baby screaming for much of the flight and I thought it was in the row behind us but it turned out to be in economy. I feel sorry for whoever is sat next to that family.
Once we were back on the A380 we made use of the bar.